I really cannot recall a summer with as much rain as we received in central Arkansas, and I am not complaining. All parts of the state have not been as lucky, but overall, it has been a milder than normal summer–and we needed it! Our gardens are in better shape that usual at the end of the growing season, but there is still work to be done, and plants to be planted. Just watch out for those mosquitoes.

The extra moisture has made the mosquito problem more intense this year, and we have enough anyway. Be sure to check for any standing water and clear that up. If you have bird baths, or small pools that don't have circulating water, consider using the mosquito dunks–small floating donuts of BT, which should be available from many nurseries or home centers.

Summer annuals that are still thriving, need a boost of fertilizer. Deadhead or cut back any leggy growth and they should continue to bloom through frost. Fall and winter annuals may be making an appearance, but hold off on planting until the weather cools off.

Warm season lawns–Bermuda, zoysia, centipede and St. Augustine can be fertilized one last time if you have not done so, by mid month. Avoid any nitrogen fertilizer after September 15. We don't want the lawn to have too much new vegetative growth as it heads into winter. If you have the shady, cool season tall fescue, fertilization begins with cooler weather, and now is a fine time to begin seeding or overseeding to thicken it up. Sod is also available, and often a better option with falling leaves.

Mums are here. A variety of sizes and colors await your garden. Some people grow mums as year-round perennials, often enjoying two seasons of blooms–a light display in late spring, and another show in the fall. Others opt for treating them as fall annuals, sinking pots in the ground or among their other garden plants. Either way, they are a great way to add extra color to the fall garden.

Clean up has begun in our flower and vegetable gardens. As plants begin to die back, start taking them out. You don't have to wait for a frost to take out plant debris. As soon as the plants begin their decline, their season is over anyway. If you have diseased or insect-ridden plants, don't add them to the compost pile–throw them away. Consider removing the old mulch and applying a fresh layer. Good sanitation can do more for your garden than anything else.

Ornamental grasses are really shining now. The plumage of the seed heads is out in full force and will continue to add to the garden throughout the fall and winter. If you don't have any grasses in your garden, consider adding some. They are a nice fill with a different form and texture all spring and summer, and then the seed heads fill in. They only need an annual shearing in early spring, and require little else in care. There are many options on eventual height and width at maturity, from low growing groundcovers to giant screening materials. While most prefer sunlight, there are even some options for shade. Check it out.

Vegetable gardens have produced well this season, and many are still producing. If you have tomatoes and peppers that have survived the summer, they should be setting fruit again, not that temperatures have cooled a bit. Other additions to the fall garden can be planting of lettuce, spinach, radishes, and greens.

The easiest method to have more perennials from one plant, is division. Dividing perennials is not difficult and can be done as the plants begin to decline this fall. A general rule, plants that bloom in the spring, should be divided in the fall, with fall bloomers divided in the spring. Summer performers can be done either season, but many choose fall for a stronger plant next season. As the plants enter dormancy, the plant will spend its energy establishing roots, and not foliage, thus giving you a stronger plant next growing season. Lift the plants that need division, and divide them using a sharp knife or spade, being careful to have a crown for each division.

Some perennials need almost yearly division, while others never need any at all. Peonies are one of those tuberous rooted perennials that would prefer to be left undisturbed. If you have to move them or divide them, now is the time to do so. Lift up the whole plant and wash away the soil, so that you can clearly see the "eyes" or buds on the root system. 3- 5 "eyes" or buds are needed for a blooming plant. And be sure to replant them shallowly, since deep planting can prevent blooming. Either way, don't be surprised if they don't bloom for you next season, but if given the proper location, they should kick in with blooms the next spring.

Compost has been compared to black gold, and has made quite a difference in our soils. Fall is the ideal time to start a compost pile, since there is such a ready supply of materials–from falling leaves, to the gleanings from our vegetable and flower gardens. Composting can be as simple as a layered pile of materials, or you can get some pretty fancy tumblers, which make a quick turn around. Your local extension office has loads of material on composting, from building the compost structure, to how to compost.

Luffa gourds have become a popular gourd in the home garden. They are loaded with fruits now, and many are confused about how to harvest and get to their natural sponges inside. Once the vine dies back, the gourds turn brown and dry, or after a killing frost, harvest the gourds. When they are good and dry the outer skin peels off fairly easily. Cut off both ends, and dump out the seeds, and save them for use next season. Cut the resulting sponge into whatever size you prefer.

If mosquitoes and other flying insects have been a problem at your house this season, consider putting up a bat house. Bats eat a huge number of flying insects every night. Some bats can eat 600 mosquitoes in just one hour! Place the bat house on a tree or the side of your house at least 20 feet above the ground. Then wait for them to come.

If diseases or insects wiped out your peach or other fruit crop this year, clean-up is definitely called for. Destroy any fallen fruit from under your trees, and remove any that have mummified on the tree. These fruits will be loaded with problems, and cause an early attack next year. Consider getting a home fruit spray schedule from your local extension office now, so you are prepared next year.

This is the season that many insects may begin to migrate indoors. Watch out for the giant wood roaches and crickets–the two that cause the most alarm. Spiders, box elder bugs and ants can also be a problem. Spiders are actually beneficial, but not inside the house. Try to keep mulch away from the base of your house, and do a good job of sanitation. Spray or use granular insecticides around the foundation, paying particular attention to doorways and windows. Spider webs often stand out in the dew in shrubs and lawn areas. Don't worry about them harming your plants, actually encourage them, as long as they remain outdoors.

Even though we have had it easier this season, don't forget that most of our spring blooming plants are still setting flower buds. Dogwoods for the most part have already set them, and you can look at your trees now and see what type of display you will have next spring, but many other plants are still setting. If it is dry in your area, make sure you water. No more pruning or fertilization this season.

Harvesting herbs continues. If you have annual herbs such as dill and basil, you are probably getting more than you can use at once. Look into preserving your herbs through freezing and drying for use all winter long. Basil makes great pesto, and is also easily preserved. Avoid heavy pruning of perennial woody herbs such as rosemary and lavender. Severe pruning late in the season can weaken the plant and make it less winter hardy. Fall is a great time to plant new perennial herbs, and give you double duty in the landscape.

Information provided from Janet Carson's Gardening Calendars and the following:

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